Available sizes for Goodyear Discharge Hoses:

• 2″ x 50′
• 3″ x 50′
• 4″ x 50′

Available sizes for Goodyear Suction Hoses:

• 2″ x 25′
• 2″ x 50′
• 3″ x 25′
• 4″ x 25′

Fix that Leak

Fixing a sink, faucet or shower with a hidden leak can be an expensive job. While the cost of the problem will depend on the various issues, repairs can be anywhere from a few hundred dollars to several thousand dollars. Why? Water leaks are usually caused by worn out or damaged plumbing, which means that fixing them requires a plumber…and plumbers aren’t exactly inexpensive. You often can’t get a plumber to come and look at your problem for less than $100, not counting the time it will take he or she to complete the repair. Additionally, a leak inside a wall will often require removing drywall to get access to the system, which means you’ve got a drywall repair to add to the plumber’s invoice.

Finally, there’s a good possibility that a hidden leak will cause the formation of mold. While some varieties of mold are generally regarded as harmless, it’s difficult to determine what kind of mold might be growing inside your home. If it’s a toxic mold – or if it could be toxic mold – removal is required. As you can imagine, ripping out and replacing more drywall and/or studs to remove mold is expensive.

How Much Water is Lost?

Besides the repair, what about all the water that is lost due to leaks? Let’s look at a drip from a leaky faucet. Here is a chart to estimate how much water you might lose in a month from that faucet:

30 drops per minute = 54 gallons per month
60 drops per minute = 113 gallons per month
120 drops per minute = 237 gallons per month
1/2″ stream of water = 1,014 gallons per month
1-1/2″ stream of water = 2,202 gallons per month

How Expensive is Tap Water Anyway?

The average price of water in the U.S. is cheap – about $3.50 per 1,000 gallons. This means that, even if you have a couple of slowly leaking faucets and a slowly dripping tub, you might only spend a few dollars a year on wasted water. This is likely why so many people ignore a leaking sink.

However, it’s not enough to consider the direct costs to you when evaluating the cost of a leak. In many areas, water is a precious commodity that is in short supply. If you’ve got a leak in your home – even if it’s just a slowly dripping sink – you’re wasting water your community can’t necessarily replace.

There’s also the fact that many communities have graduated pricing for water. If your leaking faucets, toilets, and tubs increase your consumption a few thousand gallons a month, that could move you into a completely different rate bracket.

Finally, in addition to the cost of wasted water to you and your community, a long-term drip can damage a tube or sink by creating non-repairable discoloration deposit spots and even hairline cracks. If you’ve got a sink with that kind of damage, the only solution is to buy a new sink…and that’s not exactly cheap. Figure you’ll spend at least a couple hundred dollars for a basic repair, even more if you’ve got a bathroom vanity or kitchen counter with a premium counter top.

Add it all together and it’s easy to see how water leaks – whether hidden or in plain sight – can cost homeowners a small fortune. Keep a close eye on your water bill, and if you ever smell even a hint of mold, it’s a good idea to get a moisture meter and do a little checking. Better safe than sorry.

Author Miguel Salcido writes informative articles for PremierVanities.com, your online source for designer single and double bathroom vanities.

If you don’t know the answers to these questions, dive in for a quick primer on what you really need–and really don’t–in a pool pump.

How much harm will it really do to have the wrong size pool pump?

Whether you’ve got an in ground pool or an above ground pool, you’ll save electricity (and money) by finding the right pump. An undersized pump will not circulate water quickly enough to keep it fresh and clean. An oversized pump will waste energy and may force you to waste time and attention managing what hours it is on and off. A pump that is just the right size can run around the clock without wasting money, keeping your pool clean, clear and healthy.

What is the best size for a pool pump?

The best pump size depends on your pool size. While pool pumps are often marketed according to horsepower, the relevant spec to watch for is the gallons per minute (GPM), which measures how quickly the pump cycles water. When the pump cycles all of the water in your pool once, it is called a turnover. The goal is to have two turnovers a day, meaning one turnover per 12 hours. This means that, with a few simple calculations, you can figure out the optimal GPM for your pool pump.

Say you have a 20,000 gallon pool. Two turnovers per day means that the pump should be able to cycle 40,000 gallons in 24 hours. Since there are 1440 minutes in 24 hours, divide 40,000 by 1440 to get the ideal rate in gallons per minute. In this case it would be about 27.75 GPM.
Once you simplify all the math, you can find your own target GPM using this simple formula: Target GPM = Pool Volume in gallons / 720.

Won’t it get expensive to run my pool pump for 24 hours a day?

If you do it right, you’ll minimize the costs and avoid potentially harmful (not to mention unsightly) algae colonies, collections of debris or pH fluctuations. If you’ve got a pump that consistently cycles through two full turnovers per day, your pool water should stay clean and fresh. But if your pump is overpowered, it will cycle the water much more frequently, burning lots of energy without any real improvement in the water quality. In most cases, this will start making you feel the need to save on the electric bill.

Most people respond to this urge by only running the pool pump part of the time, say 8 hours a day. That means that the pool is lying stagnant for 16 hours a day, giving debris and algae a chance to build up. This makes the pool more dangerous and less attractive while overstressing the pump system during the times you do turn it on. Finding the right pump will allow you to leave the pump running around the clock without running up an unreasonable bill, but also without forcing your pump to constantly deal with problem buildup in your pool.

This article was provided by Thomas Doane who writes for Pool Wizard and Kayak Pools.

Improve your gutters and drainage

Rain gutters are designed to collect rain water as it runs off your home and funnel it out and away from your home. When gutters leak, they allow the water to run down the foundation of your home, putting pressure on the concrete and seeping in through cracks. The gutters and drains on your homes should be fixed so that water runs down your pipes and drain out a couple feet from your home. You should also inspect your gutters at least once a year to make sure leaves, nests and other debris aren’t clogging your drainage system and preventing it from working properly.

Fix holes and cracks in concrete walls

Even minor cracks in your concrete walls are gateways for water to enter your home. Properties with water problems in the basement often suffer from older, cracked foundations, increasing maintenance needs. If you have exposed concrete walls, identifying and fixing these cracks is easy. When drywall or other walling covers the concrete, it can be difficult to spot a crack before you see evidence of water leaks. Regardless, patch up any and all leaks with masonry crack sealant or construction-grade epoxy. You can also apply sealant to the exterior of exposed concrete walls. If you are unsure of how to go about making these fixes, hire a crack repair technician to shore up the walls for you.

Apply waterproofing product to basement and concrete walls

Once you have the concrete cracks filled, you can provide an extra layer of protection by placing a waterproofing product over your concrete walls. These products bond to the concrete and essentially become one with the wall. Some products are also activated by the presence of moisture and develop waterproof seals where leaks develop.

Install a sump

Many homes and other properties have benefited greatly from the installation of a sump pump. Sump pumps use a hole in your basement floor equipped with a pump that can flush water out of the home through a hose. When water levels in the hole get too high, the sump pump automatically starts working and releases the water far enough from your home’s foundation that it shouldn’t get back into your basement. The downside to sump pumps is that they can be difficult to install without prior experience, and they’re best left to professionals specializing in sump pump installation. But if you constantly deal with leaking and flooding in your basement, a sump pump can be invaluable.

Place waterproof flooring in your basement

Basements suffering from water leaks can be home to mildew and mold, particularly in the fibers of carpeting. Many experts recommend installing waterproof flooring in your basement to lower humidity and the damage that can accompany water leaks. Waterproof flooring is also energy efficient and can help your home enjoy lower energy expenditures while serving as a barrier between moisture and your home.

This article was provided by Thomas Doane who writes for Floors To Your Home.

That’s why having a sump pump can help avert disaster on a moments notice as once the water reaches a certain level the pump flips on directing water up a tube and away from the home.

At the same time sump pumps are not without flaw and on occasion stop working. There’s no one reason why this occurs but lack of maintenance can play a big part in a malfunction which is why periodic inspections can ensure success when it’s most needed.

The best precaution every homeowner can take when it comes to sump pumps is having a back up system, which could be costly but well worth the money. This is especially the case if the potential exists for serious annual flooding.

One back up system involves another sump pump with alternative sources of energy like a generator or battery in case the power goes out. Another option is to have a wet vacuum on hand so water can be pumped out on the fly.

Both of these options are understandably dependant on personal finances but when it comes to the basement and what you may have stored there the resulting damage from a flood may create a much bigger loss down the road than the cost of one of these devices.

Safety:

Safety is one of the biggest issues when a sump pump fails and water floods. It is of extreme importance to shut off all power in the basement before venturing into the muck because water and electricity don’t mix and if the power is on or was off and suddenly goes back on you will get electrocuted.

Also, be cautious of objects you cannot see under the water such as nails, wires or other items that may have become dislodged from the structure. Even if the water isn’t particularly high the ground may be very slippery which is why it’s important to move slowly and have good traction.

Drying process:

When the sump pump fails and no back up system exists, enlisting help from neighbors with buckets to help manually transfer water is a good place to start the clean up.

After the threat of flooding ends, windows and doors should be opened allowing moisture to escape and the drying process to begin. This is a good point to start throwing away debris and unsalvageable items under water, as doing so may even lower the water level somewhat.

Furthermore, place fans in or near the space but pointing outside to push moisture outward and if the home heating system was not damaged turning it on will assist in drying things out.

Once the puddles of water have been extracted from the basement the room is likely to stay moist for a few days. That’s why it’s important to keep fans going and the space well ventilated until it’s entirely dry.

If not, any remaining moisture can be a catalyst for mold and mildew and possible rotting of the foundation which could lead to loss of structural integrity.

Jakob Barry is a home improvement journalist for Networx.com. He writes for plumbing contractors across the U.S.

Disaster relief crews move in to rescue survivors and sadly, after several days recover those who lost their lives. Next comes the cleanup, which often seems not only impossible, but hopeless. Then, and only then, can rebuilding take place.

When disaster relief reaches this point, even more decisions must be made. What structures stay, and which ones go? This is where an unlikely ally comes in to help with the disaster relief – “The Moisture Meter” – a “Building Inspection” Moisture Meter. A moisture meter can fit in your pocket, and is often tossed into the front seat of your pickup truck or shop truck. You may even bundle it into your tool box, although that’s not advised. But these small handheld moisture meters can help the disaster relief teams determine the very future of damaged buildings, simply by determining whether or not the moisture content levels of the building materials are at an acceptable level.

Believe it or not, it is actually possible to dry out building materials. Wet slabs can dry out, and be readied for new flooring. Structures can be evaluated to determine the existence of wet spots, too. With your moisture meter, you can go into a building that appears to be ready for habitation and make sure there are no “wet spots” for mold and mildew growth. While many structures involved in natural disasters have to be completely gutted, there are still parts of the structure that are rebuilt during the recovery phase. In these cases, the moisture meter will tell the construction crew if the structure is ready for rebuilding or not.

In the case of rebuilt structures such as homes and businesses, a moisture meter will tell the inspectors if the building is habitable. In some cases, perhaps undetected moisture has remained, or simply been covered up by unscrupulous entities. The proper use of a moisture meter will help the inspector identify problems areas that should be addressed before anyone inhabits the building.

Even areas of the country that are prone to natural disasters not usually associated with vast amounts of water can benefit from properly used moisture meters. Tornado Alley, for instance, often sees great damage to roofs and other structural damages. While torrential rains may accompany a tornado, flooding is not usually the problem. The San Andreas Fault is another example of a disaster that can damage structures without flooding. However, the structural damage that occurs due to tornadoes and earthquakes can cause leaks that render a building uninhabitable. The moisture meter can help inspectors determine whether or not remediation must be done, or if simple structural repairs will suffice.

About the author:
Wagner Meters is a world leader in moisture measurement products, with an expanded line of hand-held wood moisture meters that set the worldwide standard for accuracy and reliability to help you avoid problems with your important wood projects.

1. 50PU2.15S: This is Tsurumi’s 1/5 H.p. 1/115V submersible pond pump. The pump is rated 2900 Gallons Per Hour. New model number is a 2PU.
2. 50PN2.25S: This is Tsurumi’s 1/3 H.P. 1/115V submersible pond pump. The Pump is rated 3900 Gallons Per Hour. New model number is 3PN.
3. 50PN2.4S: This is Tsurumi’s 1/2 H.P. 1/115V submersible pond pump. The Pump is rated 4300 Gallons Per Hour. New model number is 4PN.
4. 50PN2.75S: This is Tsurumi’s 1 H.P. 1/115V submersible pond pump. The pump is rated 5300 Gallons Per Hour. The new model number is 8PN.

For those of you that are familiar with Tsurumi Pond Pumps, will notice that these are the previous model numbers from the older versions of the Tsurumi Pond Pumps. The similarities with the old versions starts and ends with the model number. The newer modeled pond pumps have all the new features: Energy efficient motors, upgraded longer lasting bearings and upgraded dual silicon carbide seals.

1. Titanium & FRP construction. Ideal for the toughest salt water applications.
2. Double inside mechanical seals with silicon carbide faces, (both top and bottom) running in an oil filled chamber and further protected by a lip seal running against a replaceable, 304 stainless steel shaft sleeve, provides for the most durable seal design available.
3. Oil Lifter provides lubrication of the seal faces.
4. Highly efficient, continuous duty air filled, copper wound motor with class E, insulation minimizes the cost of operation.
5. Double shielding C3 10,000 hours rated ball bearings.
6. Semi-Vortex, FRP impeller passes solids and stringy material without clogging.
7. Built in thermal & amperage sensing prevents motor failure by overloading or run dry situations.
8. Tsurumi’s iron clad 2 year warrantee.

Some application the Tsurumi TM series submersible sump pump is designed for:

1. Salt water water feature and pond applications.
2. Chemical spill containment.
3. Boat bilge pump.

1. Designed to fit an 8″ pipe.

2. Built with durable materials & light weight for portability. Weighing in at only 33 lbs.

3. Up to 60′ shut off head.

4. Available in 3/220V and 3/460V with 50 foot cables.

5. Double inside mechanical seals with silicon carbide faces, (both top and bottom) running in an oil filled chamber and further protected by a lip seal running against a replaceable, 304 stainless steel shaft sleeve, provides for the most durable seal design available.

6. Oil Lifter provides lubrication of the seal faces.

7. Semi-vortex, urethane rubber impeller, urethane front & rear ware plates and ethylene propylene rubber casing increases wear resistance when pumpage contains abrasive particles.

8. Highly efficient, continuous duty air filled, copper wound motor with class B, insulation minimizes the cost of operation.

9. Built in thermal overload protection prevents motor failure due to overloading or run dry situations.

10. Top discharge, flow-thru design enables operation at low water levels for extended periods. Discharge flange can be adjusted to pump at 90 degrees or 45 degrees to prevent kinking in the discharge hose.

11. Tsurumi’s iron clad 2 year warrantee.

Tsurumi’s LBT-800 is a rugged, durable pump for all your submersible sump pump applications without breaking the bank. The LBT-800 is only $ 575.00 with free shipping. The LBT-800 is readily available to ship the same day if orders are placed by 3:30PM EST.

1. As in all previous posts, when you are not using your pump, you should clean and store the pump in a warm & dry location.
2. Before you reinstall the pump, locate the phillips head screw that can be found in-between the stainless steel and fiber plastic on the Tsurumi Pond Pumps. Place the pump flat down with the phillips screw pointing upwards. Unscrew the screw and check the level of the oil. If the oil is low, you should fill the cavity with a Di-Electric mineral oil. As you are filling the oil, you should spin the impeller slowly with your finger (never perform this while the pump is plugged into an electrical source). Spinning the impeller will allow the oil to fill the oil chamber while releasing any air gaps. Close the screw tightly once finished and make sure there are no leaks.
3. Inspecting the electrical cord is an important step that should not be overlooked. As time passes, the cord can frey and wear causing an electrical malfunction and chance of electrocuting any life you many have in the pond. Clean the cord from top to bottom and carefully inspect for exposed wiring or thin insulation. Should you find any of these conditions, do not reinstall the pump until the power cord has been replaced. You can contact us to purchase a new cord: (888) 647-8677.
4. If you are somewhat familiar with pumps, we recommend disassembling the pump and inspecting the gaskets and O-rings. These vital parts prevent water from entering you motor and causing an electrical failure. Please do not attempt if you are not familiar with pumps.
5. Check the operation of the pump out of water. Plug the pump into an electrical source and run the pump for 30 seconds. This will save you time installing a faulty pump.